cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第47部分

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at　length　reached　the　sea…beach　and　crossed　the　sandy　mouth　of　the
river's　bed。　The　crops　of　cereals　were　perished　by　drought　in　the
absence　of　irrigation；　but　upon　continuing　our　route　parallel　with　the
beach　we　observed　an　immediate　improvement；　as　the　water　was　conducted
by　artificial　channels　to　the　various　fields。　This　arrangement　had　been
effected　by　erecting　a　temporary　dam　in　the　river's　bed　far　among　the
mountains；　and　thus　leading　the　stream　into　the　conduit　for　many　miles。
Small　brooks　intersected　our　path　along　the　coast；　and　in　several　places
I　remarked　the　ruins　of　ancient　aqueducts。　。　。　。　There　was　nothing　of
peculiar　interest　upon　this　route；　the　land　inclined　upwards　from　the
sea　for　six　or　seven　miles　to　the　foot　of　the　mountain　range；　all　of
which　was　either　cultivated　with　cereals　or　was　covered　with　caroub…
trees　and　olives。　Many　villages　were　dotted　over　the　surface；　these　were
green　with　mulberry　and　various　fruit…trees。　With　the　sea　upon　our
right；　and　the　waves　dashing　briskly　upon　the　rocky　shore；　the　scene　was
agreeable；　but　the　sun　was　hot；　and　we　were　not　sorry　to　see　the　distant
minarets　of　Ktima　after　a　ride　of　seventeen　miles　from　Arodes。

We　passed　the　ruins　of　ancient　Paphos　upon　our　right；　and　shortly
afterwards　ascended　the　rocky　slope　upon　which　the　capital　of　the
district；　Ktima；　is　situated。　It　is　a　large　town；　and　as　we　rode　through
the　bazaar　the　narrow　street　was　almost　blocked　with　huge　piles　of
oranges　that　had　been　imported　from　Jaffa；　the　season　for　the　Cyprus
fruit　being　nearly　over。

Iiani　was　exceedingly　stupid　in　selecting　camping…ground；　therefore
upon　arrival　at　a　new　place　we　invariably　had　to　explore　the
neighbourhood；　like　migratory　birds　landed　upon　strange　shores。　We
accordingly　rode　through　the　considerable　town　of　Ktima　amidst　the
barking　and　snapping　of　innumerable　dogs；　who　attacked　our　British
spaniels；　keeping　up　a　running　fight　throughout　the　way；　until　we
emerged　upon　open　country　beyond　the　outskirts。

We　were　now　once　more　upon　a　flat　table…top；　about　a　hundred　feet　above
the　plain　between　us　and　the　sea；　a　mile　and　a　half　distant。　The　edge　of
the　table…land　formed　a　cliff；　choked　from　its　base　with　huge　fallen
blocks　of　sedimentary　limestone；　from　the　crevices　of　which　trees　grew
in　great　profusion；　reminding　one　of　hanging　coverts　upon　hill…sides　in
England。　Descending　a　steep　but　well…trodden　path　between　these
cottage…like　masses　of　disjointed　rock；　we　arrived　at　the　prettiest
camping…ground　that　I　had　seen　in　Cyprus。　This　had　formed　the　camp　of
the　Indian　troops　when　the　occupation　had　taken　place　in　July；　1878；　and
unfortunately　in　this　charming　spot　they　had　suffered　severely　from
fever。

The　sea　and　the　town　and　port　of　Baffo　lay　before　us；　but　immediately　in
front　of　the　rocky　and　tree…covered　heights　that　we　had　descended　were
great　numbers　of　park…like　trees　which　I　had　never　before　met　with。
These　were　of　large　size；　many　exceeding　fourteen　feet　in　girth；　with　a
beautiful　foliage　that　threw　a　dense　shade　beneath。　The　name　of　this
tree　is　Tremithia；　and　it　bears　a　small　fruit　in　clusters　of　berries
which　produce　oil：　this　is　used　by　the　inhabitants　for　the　same　purposes
as　that　obtained　from　olives。　I　had　met　with　the　bush　in　a　wild　state
for　the　first　time　at　Lapithus；　and　had　been　attracted　by　the　aromatic
scent　of　the　young　leaves；　but　I　was　not　aware　that　it　grew　to　the　size
of　a　forest…tree。　Springs　of　pure　water　issued　from　the　rocks　in　the
cliff…side　within　a　few　yards　of　our　position；　these　were　caught　in
large　reservoirs　of　masonry　from　twenty　to　thirty　feet　square　and　six
feet　deep；　from　the　bottom　of　which　the　water　could　be　liberated　for　the
purposes　of　irrigation。　We　selected　a　position　upon　a　terrace　beneath　a
number　of　these　splendid　tremithias；　which　afforded　a　shade　during　all
hours　of　the　day。　The　little　stream　rippled　just　below；　passing　by　the
roots　of　the　trees　that　sheltered　us；　and　watered　a　rich　and　dark　green
plot　of　about　two　acres　ofneither　roses；　nor　violets；　but　something
far　better；　which　at　once　delighted　our　cook　Christoonions！　According
to　his　practical　ideas　the　Garden　of　Eden　would　have　been　a　mere
wilderness　in　the　absence　of　a　bed　of　onions；　but　at　length　we　had
entered　upon　Paradise；　this　WAS　a　charming　place！　For　some　distance
beyond　this　captivating　plot　the　tremithias　（which　at　a　distance
resembled　fine…headed　oaks）　ornamented　the　surface　and　gave　a　park…like
appearance　to　the　country；　but　beyond　them　the　plain　was　a　gentle　slope；
highly　cultivated　towards　the　sea。　Long　before　the　arrival　of　our
baggage　animals　we　had　visitors；　Captain　Wauchope；　the　chief
commissioner　of　the　district；　and　several　officers　in　official
positions；　were　kind　enough　to　call。　An　old　man　and　his　wife；　the
proprietors　of　the　onions；　who　lived　close　by；　brought　us　some
rush…bottomed　chairs　with　much　civility；　and　as　the　day　wore　on　a　long
string　of　visitors　appeared；　including　the　Bishop　and　some　of　the　native
officials；　and　we　were　of　course　surrounded　with　the　usual　throng　of
women　and　children：　these　were　cleaner　and　better　looking　than　those　we
had　hitherto　encountered。

The　camels　did　not　appear　until　late　in　the　evening；　as　they　had
descended　the　steep　pass　from　the　table…land　of　Arodes　with　much
difficulty；　and　liani's　〃antique〃　had　again　fallen；　repeatedly；　and
necessitated　a　division　of　his　load；　which　already　had　been　reduced　to
that　of　a　donkey。

When　the　sun　rose　on　the　following　morning　I　walked　into　Ktima　by　a　good
path；　that　led　through　the　rocks　along　the　base　of　the　cliff　until　it
ascended　gradually　to　the　town。　Although　the　cyclamens　were　past　their
bloom；　their　variegated　leaves　ornamented　the　white　stones　as　they
emerged　like　bouquets　from　the　crevices　of　fallen　rock。　There　was　little
of　interest　in　the　town；　which　hardly　repaid　a　walk：　it　left　the　same
depressing　feeling　that　I　had　so　often　experienced　in　our　journey
through　Cyprus：　〃The　past　had　been　great；　and　the　present　was　nothing。〃

The　little　insignificant　harbour　exhibited　a　few　small　craft　of　about
twenty　tons。　There　was　a　small　fort　and　a　British　flag；　there　were　also
the　ruins　of　ancient　Paphos；　but　there　was　nothing　to　denote　progress　or
commercial　activity。　In　the　afternoon　Captain　Wauchope　was　kind　enough
to　accompany　us　over　the　ruins。　As　I　have　before　explained；　there　is
nothing　of　interest　upon　the　surface　of　ancient　cities　throughout
Cyprus。　Anything　worth　having　has　been　appropriated　many　ages　since　by
those　who　understood　its　value；　and　beyond　a　few　fallen　columns　and
blocks　of　squared　stone　there　is　literally　nothing　to　attract　attention。
Even　General　di　Cesnola　excavated　in　vain　upon　the　site　of　ancient
Paphos；　which　from　its　great　antiquity　promised　an　abundant　harvest。
There　were　two　fine　monoliths；　the　bases　of　which；　resting　upon　a
foundation　of　squared　stones；　appeared　as　though　they　had　formed　the
entrance　to　a　temple；　these　were　pillars　of　grey　granite　（foreign　to
Cyprus）　about　twenty…seven　feet　high　and　three　feet　two　inches　in
diameter。

There　were　stony　mounds　in　many　directions；　and　fallen　pillars　and
columns　of　granite　and　of　coarse　grey　and　whitish　marble；　but　beyond
these　ordinary　vestiges　there　was　nothing　of　peculiar　interest。　As　there
is　no　authority　equal　to　General　di　Cesnola　upon　the　antiquities　of
Cyprus；　I　trust　he　will　excuse　me　for　inserting　the　following
interesting　extract　from　his　work；　upon　The　Great　Centre　of　the　Worship
of　Venus：

　　　　〃Although　this　spot　＇Paphos＇　was　the　scene　of　great
　　　　religious　events；　and　was　otherwise　important　in　the
　　　　island；　yet　neither　are　there　more　than　a　very　few
　　　　ruins　existing　above　ground；　nor　have　the　explorations
　　　　I　have　directed　there　at　different　times　succeeded　in
　　　　bringing　to　light　anything　of　interest。　I　believe　that
　　　　this　absence　of　ruins　can　be　accounted　for　in　the
　　　　following　manner。　Paphos　was　several　times　overthrown
　　　　by　earthquakes。　The　last　time　the　temple　was　rebuilt
　　　　was　by　Vespasian；　on　whose　coins　it　is　represented；　but
　　　　as　nothing　is　said　of　the　rebuilding　of　the　city　it　is
　　　　supposed　that　it　was　left　in　ruins；　probably　therefore
　　　　during　the　long　period　that　Cyprus　was　under　the　Roman
　　　　and　the　Byzantine　rule　a　great　deal　of　the　decorative
　　　　and　architectural　material　of　Paphos　was　transported　to
　　　　the　other　city　called　Nea…Paphos；　and　used　for　its
　　　　embellishment。　In　the　Acts　of　the　Apostles　it　is　spoken
　　　　of　as　the　official　residence　of　the　Roman　proconsul
　　　　Paulus　Sergius；　and　was　therefore　the　capital　of　the
　　　　island。　By　the　time　of　the　Lusignan　kings　Palaeo…Paphos
　　　　had　disappeared；　and　its　ruins　under　their　reign　were
　　　　extensively　explored　in　search　of　statuary　and　other
　　　　objects　of　art；　with　which　to　decorate　the　royal　castle
　　　　built　in　its　vicinity。　There　is　scarcely　any　ancient
　　　　tomb　to　be　found　of　a　date　previous　to　the　Roman　period
　　　　which　had　not　been　opened　centuries　ago。〃

In　page　207　General　di　Cesnola　gives　an　illustration　of　〃stone　feet　with
a　Cypriote　inscription；　from　the　temple　of　Paphos；〃　which　would　suggest
from　their　appearance　that　gout　was　not